Lisbon, Porto, Sintra, the Algarve: A world away from Portugal’s increasingly popular cities and coast is the Côa Valley, a biodiversity hotspot in the country’s north, where low-impact living and cultural heritage preservation is woven into its DNA.
*Jessica Heather was one of four mentees who participated in Intrepid’s second Diversifying Travel Media press trip in October 2024 alongside three fellow mentees/aspiring travel journalists and four mentors/established travel writers and editors.*
It’s pitch black and our tour group huddles close, following the narrow beam of Ana’s torchlight as she leads us along a dirt trail. The only sounds are the crunch of gravel and the low murmur of voices. Then we stop.
Before us, illuminated by the beam, is a rock face—massive, ancient, and alive with stories. Ana gestures upward, and there it is: The unmistakable outline of an animal, its form carved into stone more than 25,000 years ago. This is northern Portugal’s Côa Valley—a land of ancient rock art, unspoilt landscapes, and a growing commitment to sustainable living.
I’ve come to know this part of the world through Ana Berliner and António Monteiro, biologists from Lisbon and now the owners of Casa da Cisterna guesthouse in the Côa Valley. This remote northern corner of Portugal has become more than just a beautiful backdrop; it’s a living canvas of history, culture, and environmental responsibility.
One of the Côa Valley’s biggest draws is its UNESCO World Heritage prehistoric rock art site—ancient engravings across the valley’s hillsides that depict daily life from the end of the Palaeolithic Age. Guided tours, like this one, explain how these engravings of hunting scenes, animals, and rituals connect the past to the present, and how, for thousands of years, the people of the Côa Valley have lived with a deep connection to the land and wildlife.
As far back as 15,000 to 30,000 years ago, wild animals roamed the open grasslands here, coexisting with the early humans. Over time, these animals were gradually domesticated. This shift wasn’t just about survival—it marked a long-standing relationship between humans and nature. Today, in places like the region’s Faia Brava Reserve, this continues. Domesticated animals graze freely across the same landscapes their wild ancestors once did, feeding on the grasses and shrubs that would otherwise increase wildfire risk, showing the role these ancient practices play in preserving the valley today.
Under torchlight, as the art is better observed by night, we gather around a large rock face covered in engravings. Ana points out a striking depiction of a horse, her voice increasingly more animated: “What strikes me most about this carving,” she says, “is the sense of movement it holds. The way the lines curve and flow—it’s almost like the horse is in mid-gallop.”
“We hope to set an example, with every choice we make”, Ana says with pride. “The valley is rich in history and culture, but it’s also fragile. We need to ensure that what we leave behind is as beautiful and vital as what we have found.”
- Ana Berliner, Casa da Cisterna guesthouse
For Ana and Antonio, these tours aren’t just a way to highlight their region’s history; they’re an opportunity to foster an appreciation for the valley. But with the valley facing depopulation as young people move to cities, this has brought challenges, Ana tells us, with many families no longer working the land. But some people, like them, have seen this as opportunity to do the opposite.
Later that evening at Casa da Cisterna, Ana and staff host a communal dinner where we enjoy a delicious feast. Much of the food is grown on the property or sourced locally; freshly baked bread served with the estate’s olive oil (which you can buy); plump, sun-ripened figs in salads or paired with local cheeses; herb-infused lentil soup; homemade quiche with eggs, garden herbs, and cheeses from local goat and sheep farms; and local Douro wines. Food waste is minimized and given to local farms for animal feed.
Other sustainability efforts include solar panels for heat and electricity, garbage burned in a controlled manner, and fireplaces fueled by wood gathered from the careful de-bushing of nearby wooded areas, which helps to maintain the natural landscape.
Across Portugal, rural areas are increasingly being recognized as key players in the country’s tourism landscape. In the Douro Valley, family-run Quinta da Roêda in the tiny town of Pinhão is not only producing world-renowned craft port but also offering vineyard tours, farm-to-table meals and hands-on experiences such as traditional grape treading during harvest season.
The estate also produces its own olive oil and runs educational experiences about the region’s biodiversity. These efforts reflect a broader shift. Visitors aren’t just coming for the views; they’re seeking meaningful connections with the land and the people who care for it.
The Côa Valley, with its prehistoric rock art, including the Côa Valley Museum, is another example. Managed by the Côa Parque Foundation, the museum plays a crucial role by offering guided tours to rock art sites and engaging in scientific research. In doing so, it contributes to the local economy and supports the preservation of the Côa Valley’s cultural landscape.
And it is a beautiful place. Quietly captivating, the terrain is rugged, with its hills and steep slopes, rocky ridges, and dry scrubland scattered with olive trees and vineyards. The meandering Côa River cuts through the landscape, and the golden light typical of the region casts a warm, timeless glow.
Hiking, birdwatching, and wildlife-spotting are all part of the Côa Valley experience. Faia Brava, Portugal’s first privately protected nature reserve, is just a short drive away from the guesthouse, and the Biologists Trail in the forested southern part of the reserve, is a chance to spot wild boar, red deer, and foxes.
Visitors may be lucky to encounter a small herd of Garrano horses, a breed native to northern Portugal, known for their resilience and adaptability to the harsh, rocky terrain. These semi-wild horses roam freely within the reserve, grazing on the hills and open fields. Birds of prey, like the majestic Egyptian and griffon vultures, circle the skies; eagles, once threatened by habitat destruction, have now found new nesting sites in the cliffs that frame the Côa River.
“We hope to set an example, with every choice we make. The valley is rich in history and culture, but it’s also fragile. We need to ensure that what we leave behind is as beautiful and vital as what we have found.”
- Ana Berliner, Casa da Cisterna guesthouse
After an afternoon’s hike, Antonio and I look out over the Côa River, and chat about the evolution of this area. “The traditional way of work with regards to supporting the economy was based on farming,” he tells me, “and it collapsed decades ago because people left for the cities in search of work. The land was quite poor on soil quality and water. It had dried up, so the alternative for having a use for the landscape for the land was nature.”
But it’s this very nature that has proved to be the valley’s bounty. “Nature generates income for people through ecotourism through the production of wild products,” he says. “People will have a steady income.” Faia Brava Reserve produces a variety of organic products, including olive oil, sugar- and cinnamon-roasted almonds, jams, and honey.
And they’re not alone in this vision. The entire region is recognizing that sustainability isn’t just a buzzword but a vital element in preserving both its environment and its heritage. One standout example is the Côa Valley Archaeological Park, which protects the region’s prehistoric rock art and offers guided tours led by local experts.
Once skeptical of mass tourism, locals now see its potential to not only bring visitors but also to bring about positive change. Community-led projects from local artisans in Castelo Rodrigo have come together to create workshops in traditional crafts, such as pottery, weaving, and cork production. These workshops also support the livelihoods of local artisans, who are keen to share their history, customs, and traditions, and pass on their knowledge to new generations.
Ana and Antonio are at the forefront of this shift, creating a space where guests can learn about the valley’s ecological challenges and how sustainable tourism is helping mitigate them. While Casa da Cisterna doesn’t function as a traditional information center, Ana and Antonio offer a wealth of knowledge, resources and experiences for visitors.
“We hope to set an example, with every choice we make”, Ana says with pride. “The valley is rich in history and culture, but it’s also fragile. We need to ensure that what we leave behind is as beautiful and vital as what we have found.”
With their commitment to sustainability, Ana and Antonio are helping to cultivate a new model for tourism in northern Portugal, one which encourages visitors to engage with the land and people.
On my last evening, whilst sitting on the terrace at sunset, I had a moment to fully appreciate the Côa Valley’s sense of peace, connection to its past, and genuine effort to protect the future. And thanks to people like Ana and Antonio, it looks like tourism here will continue to thrive in a way that benefits both visitors and locals alike.
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This trip was based on elements of Intrepid’s Portugal Real Food Adventure which visits parts of rural, northern Portugal, including the Côa Valley.
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Jessica Heather, is an award-nominated content creator and freelance travel writer, with an interest in accessible, diverse, inclusive and affordable travel. Jessica creates content for YouTube channel ‘Holiday With The Heathers’ and writes a travel blog at holidaywiththeheathers.com. She has written for publications such as Navigate Magazine and Explorers Magazine.
